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Views: 0 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2026-02-09 Origin: Site
Have you ever wondered what keeps your car's engine from shaking the entire vehicle apart? The answer lies in a small but critical component known as the engine mount. This part serves as the primary connection point between the engine and the vehicle's chassis. Its job is twofold: it secures the engine in place and absorbs the intense vibrations created during combustion.
Most modern vehicles use rubber engine mounts. These are designed with a metal bracket and a durable rubber bushing in the middle. The rubber acts as a cushion, isolating the noise and vibration of the engine from the cabin. Over time, however, heat, oil leaks, and constant stress can cause these rubber engine mounts to deteriorate. When they fail, you might notice excessive vibration, clunking noises, or even engine movement. Learning how to replace motor mounts is a vital skill for DIY mechanics looking to restore their car's smoothness and protect other drivetrain components.
How do you know it is time to tackle this repair? Identifying the symptoms early can save you from more expensive repairs down the line, such as damage to the transmission or exhaust system.
The most obvious sign is vibration. If your steering wheel shakes while you are stopped at a red light, your engine mount might be worn out. Another clear indicator is noise. A distinct "clunk" or "thud" when you shift gears or accelerate suggests the engine is shifting because the mount is broken.
Visually inspecting rubber engine mounts is also helpful. Look for cracks in the rubber, separation from the metal, or oil soaking into the material. If the rubber looks dried out or torn, you definitely need to replace motor mounts.
Generally, rubber engine mounts are built to last between 60,000 and 100,000 miles. However, this lifespan varies based on driving conditions. Aggressive driving, off-roading, or fluid leaks (like motor oil or power steering fluid) dripping onto the mount can degrade the rubber much faster.
Before you begin the process to replace motor mounts, you must gather the right equipment. Attempting this job without the proper tools can be dangerous, as you will be lifting the engine slightly.
Tool Category | Specific Item Needed | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
Lifting Equipment | Floor Jack | Lifting the vehicle and supporting the engine |
Lifting Equipment | Jack Stands | Securing the vehicle safely |
Hand Tools | Socket Set (Metric/SAE) | Removing mounting bolts |
Hand Tools | Breaker Bar | Loosening stubborn or rusted bolts |
Hand Tools | Torque Wrench | Tightening bolts to factory specs |
Support Materials | Wooden Block (2x4) | Protecting the oil pan during lifting |
Lubricants | Penetrating Oil | Loosening rusted hardware |
Safety Gear | Gloves and Eye Protection | Personal safety |
Having a high-quality replacement engine mount ready is also crucial. Do not start the job until you have confirmed the new part matches your vehicle's specifications.
Safety is paramount when working under a car. How should you set up your workspace? Start by parking on a level, solid surface. Engage the parking brake firmly.
Next, you need to lift the vehicle. Using your floor jack, lift the front of the car and secure it on jack stands. Never rely solely on the hydraulic jack to hold the car while you are working. Once the car is secure, open the hood. locate the specific engine mount you intend to replace. Spraying the mounting bolts with penetrating oil at this stage will make the job much easier later.
This is the most critical step when you look to replace motor mounts. You cannot simply unbolt the mount, or the engine will drop.
Place a block of wood on the saddle of your floor jack. Position the jack underneath the engine's oil pan. The wood is essential because it distributes the weight and prevents the jack from denting or cracking the oil pan.
Pump the jack slowly until it just touches the oil pan. Then, lift the engine very slightly—usually just an inch or less. You are not trying to remove the engine; you are simply taking the weight off the engine mount so the bolts can be removed. If you lift too high, you risk straining radiator hoses or wiring harnesses.
Now that the engine is supported, you can proceed with the removal and installation.
With the weight of the engine supported by the jack, use your breaker bar and sockets to loosen the bolts securing the engine mount to the frame and the engine block.
Sometimes, rubber engine mounts are located in tight spaces. You may need to use socket extensions or swivel joints to reach the bolts. Once the bolts are out, carefully slide the old mount out. If it is stuck, double-check that you have removed all bolts and that the engine is lifted enough to relieve pressure on the mount.
Compare the new engine mount with the old one to ensure they are identical. Slide the new unit into place. Thread the bolts in by hand first to ensure you do not cross-thread them.
Once the bolts are hand-tight, lower the engine slightly so it rests on the new mount. This ensures the engine settles correctly. Then, using your torque wrench, tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's specified torque settings. This step is vital; loose bolts can cause vibrations, while overtightened bolts can damage the new rubber engine mounts.
After you replace motor mounts, do not just drive away immediately. There are a few final checks to perform.
Remove the jack from under the oil pan. Lower the vehicle off the jack stands. Start the engine and listen. Does it sound smoother? Shift through the gears (with your foot on the brake) to see if the "clunk" is gone. Take a short test drive to ensure the vibration issues are resolved.
When shopping for parts, you might see polyurethane options, but standard rubber engine mounts are usually best for daily driving. Why is this? Rubber is excellent at absorbing high-frequency vibrations. While polyurethane is stiffer and better for racing, it often transfers more vibration into the cabin.
If you want a comfortable, quiet ride, sticking with high-quality rubber engine mounts is the right choice. They provide the balance of durability and comfort that most drivers expect.
If you go to a mechanic, the labor cost can be high because reaching some mounts is difficult. The parts themselves—specifically a single engine mount—can range from $50 to $150. However, labor can push the bill over $500.
By learning to replace motor mounts yourself, you save significantly on labor. You only pay for the engine mount itself and perhaps some new tools. This makes it a very cost-effective DIY project.
When it comes to sourcing reliable automotive components, quality matters. You do not want to replace motor mounts only to have the rubber fail again in a few months.
For those seeking durable and precisely engineered auto parts, we recommend checking out suhon auto. They provide high-standard components designed to meet or exceed OEM specifications. Whether you need standard rubber engine mounts or other critical spares, suhon auto ensures you get the longevity your vehicle deserves.
Most cars have between three and four mounts. This usually includes a transmission mount alongside the main engine mount units.
It is not recommended. Driving with a broken engine mount can damage the transmission, axles, and exhaust components due to excessive engine movement.
While you don't technically have to, it is often a good idea. If one engine mount has failed, the others have likely been under extra stress and may fail soon. It is efficient to replace motor mounts as a set if possible.
For a DIY mechanic, it typically takes 1 to 2 hours to replace a singlngine mount, depending on how accessible it is.
Oil leaks are the biggest enemy. If motor oil drips onto the rubber engine mounts, it softens the rubber, causing it to crack and collapse.
Email: junz@suhonauto.com
Phone: +86-18138671291
